High Desert Cheer - Exploring New Mexico's Craft Brews

We kick off this 3-part series with a focus on the leading local libation: beer. There are currently over 3 dozen independent operations - microbreweries, brewpubs, brew houses, and taprooms - around the state. And while New Mexico is not known for its hop production like some other areas (though Native New Mexican hops, or neomexicanus, is increasingly present), the combination of water quality, climate, inspiring ingredients, and a thriving community-centric craft brew culture all contribute to its success. In fact, in 2022 New Mexico was ranked #10 in breweries per capita by the Brewer’s Association, and the state has been awarded over 190 medals for quality beer.

Three local experts share their thoughts on why New Mexico craft beers are so special, as well as some trends … and challenges.

Where do you position New Mexico in regard to the domestic beer scene?
All of the breweries whip up seasonal and special production beers, including some brews from local ingredients, so check them out. Of course, the best experience is almost always going to be sitting in the brewpub or taproom, talking with the people making the stuff, and sampling their varieties. In New Mexico you can drink distinctive local beer almost anywhere you visit.

New Mexico’s craft beer and wine industry has flourished, attracting both locals and visitors eager to experience the state’s distinctive flavors and styles. Exploring the breweries and wineries of New Mexico not only offers a chance to taste exceptional beverages but also provides a deeper appreciation for the state’s culture, landscape, and the creativity of its artisans.

What's so special about New Mexico beer?
It's less about the beer and more about the community that beer brings together- though we're very fortunate to have both. It's not so much a competition between businesses and more of a support system. Brewers are constantly learning from one another and sharing ingredients. It's one of the things that I love about New Mexico beer.

What kinds of challenges do you encounter around these parts?
The biggest elements that work against beer production in New Mexico would be elevation and our extreme seasons. Higher elevations come with lower boiling points, decreased hop utilization, and more boil off. While not all that different from brewing at sea level, it takes little tweaks that come from experience to make an exceptional beer at high elevation.

What are some of the more interesting ingredients you have seen in local beers?
Being in New Mexico of course we see green chile in beer but I've also seen beers with Amburana wood and reishi mushrooms. The world is a brewer's oyster for ingredients - throw in some oyster shells while you're at it!

What trends are you noticing in the beer world these days?
Unfortunately, we're seeing that beer sales are down across the country. But craft beer's focus of quality over quantity is what will get us through- you can't beat a good beer at the end of a hard day. And with that in mind, support your local brewery! When you're at the grocery store, consider buying some local beer instead of big brands. Your purchase helps keep our craft industry alive and growing.

More on New Mexico Brewers Guild here.

Where can we find Blü Dragonfly?
Our brewery is based at the Raton airport, and we recently re-opened our original tap room in Cimarron - which is where we originally brewed - with a BBQ-based menu. We also opened a brand new tap room location in Red River, where the menu is a bit more upscale with seafood, sushi and steaks. We are doing a curated cocktail menu in Red River as well.

Where do you position New Mexico in regard to the domestic beer scene?
There’s a strong craft beer, spirits, winery, and cidery scene in our state. We have some real stand-out breweries that regularly win medals at the Great American Beer Festival.

What's so special about New Mexico beer?
I think there’s something about New Mexico that attracts creative people who really excel at their art, be it painting, sculpture, chefs, distillers, brewers, or vintners.We have a pretty creative brewing community. I also draw inspiration from our New Mexican traditions like brewing an amber ale with roasted Hatch green chile or a biscochito stout. We tend to be kind of independent in the rural areas of the state and we like to try unconventional things when it comes to our brewing.

What kinds of challenges do you encounter around these parts?
When we started out in 2018, it was not long after the Ute Park fire and we had been through a long drought. At one point, our reservoir was reputed to have about one month’s worth of water left in it before the monsoon finally came. We literally could have been put out of business before we started due to a shortage of water. When we have adequate supply, our water is ideal to brew many different styles of beer without making major alterations to the minerals in the brewing water.

From a logistics standpoint, Denver is a major brewing supply hub for the mountain west so we have many resources for supplies and large capital equipment only four hours up the road. We purchase our grains from a mill in Monte Vista, Colorado which is only two and a half hours from our brewery and it’s a nice drive out there. There are also hop farms in New Mexico and Colorado and we’ve even harvested wild hops in the past. It’s a vastly different environment than where I come from back in Oklahoma.

What are some of the more interesting ingredients you have seen or used in local brews?
Well, in New Mexico, we have to have our chile, so it’s almost obligatory that we would add green or red to a recipe. One of the breweries has a red corn lager out that I found to be pretty novel and a pretty tasty beer. Our biscochito stout that utilizes cinnamon, orange peel, and star anise took second at the New Mexico Brewers Guild Stout Invitational last spring and it’s becoming pretty popular around the Enchanted Circle.

What trends are you noticing in the craft beverage industry and how are you adapting?
Craft beer is actually shrinking a bit right now. The big trends are non-alcoholic alternatives for people who want the refreshment of a beer but not the effect of the alcohol. Those are either non-alcoholic malt beverages or hop waters where the water is infused with brewing hops then highly carbonated like a soda. Craft cocktails are still gaining market share and hard seltzers are shrinking.

Blü Dragonfly is actually starting to look into becoming a beverage company rather than a brewery, and making both alcoholic and non-alcoholic beverages. I think there’s room for a regional company making agua frescas, horchatas, beer, and spirits. We are also looking at branching out into spirits in the near future as well.

More on Blü Dragonfly Brewing here.

Where do you position New Mexico in regard to the domestic beer?
New Mexico has some great breweries, and we're proud to be a big part of that. A fun fact: We are the highest elevation brewery in NM and one of the highest in the US. That's not just interesting, it makes a real difference. We have absolutely fabulous water here in Red River. We're not downstream from anyone! We make a living turning snowflakes into beer.

What's so special about New Mexico beer?
I think NM brewers and distillers have a unique sense of creativity. We generally don't feel constrained by centuries of tradition. We give ourselves permission to explore and try new things. I like that.

What kinds of challenges or advantages do you encounter around these parts?
For us it's our high elevation that presents some real challenges! At 8750 feet above sea level, our distillery is the third highest elevation distillery in the world. In fact, we have to have our bottle corks custom manufactured to work at this elevation. The regular ones expand too much up here, they puff up just like marshmallows and don't fit into the bottle necks.

On the positive side, distilling at this elevation means we distill at relatively low temperatures (because the boiling points of liquids are lower). Low temperature distillation allows smooth and mellow flavors to come through with fewer of the harsh cooked-in flavors that develop at higher temperatures. It makes our spirits very smooth.

What are some of the more interesting ingredients you have seen or used in local brews?
Prickly Pear fruit. Our Alientown Prickly Bear is brewed with delicious prickly pear fruit from Alientown Cactus and ChileCompany in Roswell, NM. With some agave syrup thrown in, this blonde has a touch of sweetness. 6.2% ABV / 16 IBUs. The prickly pear imparts a bright red color that is very interesting.

What trends are you noticing in the craft beverage world these days?
RTDs (Ready to Drink) cocktails are hot now. We'd be doing that too if I had physical room in our brewery for another canning line. I'm not too sad about that though since we have lots to keep us busy anyway!

More on Red River Brewing Company here.