New Mexico Flavors - A Tale of Two Chiles

Red and green chiles (spelled with an 'e' not an 'i' in these parts) are essential ingredients in New Mexican and Mexican cuisine, each adding its unique flavor and heat. In fact, chiles are so popular in The Land of Enchantment that local indigenous rap group, Ph8 w/ The Bees & Locusts, even celebrates them in their hit song, “Christmas All Year.” An unfamiliar phrase to many, but locals know that "red, green or Christmas-style" refers to whether one's personal preference is to have red chile, green chile, or a combination of both as a topping on any dish.

In the song, PH8, the group's lead frontman, declares, “Smother me like New Mexican cuisine, be my red chile, be my green chile,” and concludes with the following playful dig at their northern neighbors: “We got the best damn food, who want to battle, I see you trying to be like us Colorado.” It's a fair statement, given that the only place that can compete with our use of chilis is our southern neighbors in Mexico.

As a chef and a passionate food lover, I've had the joy of exploring both chili varieties in all their vibrant glory and versatile uses. While there are innumerable capsicums around the world, these two have a particularly special place in our hearts - and plates - as they are the most closely associated with our beloved New Mexican cuisine.

First up, Team Red.

New Mexico's red chile is legendary. It's all about ripe, dried red chiles, especially the Chimayó and Hatch varieties. (I just go back from Mexico City, and found an abundance of red chile in the delicious culinary offerings there, too.)

Named after the historic town of Chimayó, this pepper variety grows across roughly 500 acres annually, enriching local agriculture. Celebrated for their unique flavor profile, Chimayó peppers offer a unique and balances blend of fruity sweetness and moderate heat. The powdered form is so highly regarded that it can cost up to $45 per pound. This price reflects not only their culinary importance but also the cultural and historical heritage they embody.

Red chilies are green chili pods that have been left to ripen until they turn a deep red color. This ripening process also alters the chili's flavor, creating a taste that distinguishes it from green peppers. Some of these ripe red pods are harvested and arranged into vibrant ristras, a common sight in New Mexico's kitchens and restaurants.

In our local cuisine, these deep red capsicums are typically roasted, peeled, and used in various forms - whole, chopped, or ground into powder. Most often, they are used in a classic New Mexico red sauce with a rich, earthy flavor that then becomes a key element in dishes such as enchiladas, posole, moles, and tamales. It's also delicious when simply served over savory breakfast foods like eggs. But don’t stop there. It’s fun to experiment. Take a cue from Red River's New Mexico True-certified business The Candy Crate & Candy Mountain Fudge where they use red chile in both fudge and brittle. You’ll also find them in wine, beer, and cocktails.

I love using red chile for dishes and drinks that need a deeper flavor profile. They're the perfect match for complex spices, chocolate, dark meats, and a good red wine. (Like some of these, made here in New Mexico.) Do note that heat of these chiles can vary from mild to hot, depending on the type, age and preparation. So if you're spice-sensitive, be sure to always ask for a taste before ordering.

And now for Team Green.

Green chiles are usually picked before they're fully ripe, which makes them a bit milder compared to the fiery red ones.

Chimayó's rival to the south is the New Mexico Hatch green chile. This particular species grows in the Hatch Valley, spanning along the Rio Grande from Arrey, New Mexico, to Tonuco Mountain southeast of the town of Hatch, New Mexico. Unique soil and growing conditions in the valley create distinct flavor. Most varieties are developed at New Mexico State University. Hatch chile is available locally in the Southwest, but some distributors use the name without growing it there. To protect local growers, a 2012 law mandates that chile labeled "New Mexican" must be grown in the state or carry a disclaimer. Hatch chiles are often sold fresh-roasted in late summer and early autumn, both locally and nationwide.

Chile verde, or green chile sauce, is omnipresent here in New Mexico. It's made by roasting green chiles, then mixing in other flavorful ingredients such as tomatillos, garlic, onions, and cilantro, resulting in a delicious sauce that can be added to dishes such as green chile pork stew, chilaquiles, hummus, and even mac'n'cheese. And it's hard to go wrong with a chile cheeseburger around here.

You can also use as a topping for tacos, fish, salads, or swirl into mayo for a quick dip with a kick. The fresh, lightly pungent, smoky flavor and mild to medium heat factor make them a versatile ingredient in many recipes.

Zingy green chiles are a personal favorite. I like to keep it light and bright by simply chucking them into homemade hummus, sprinkling them on a tangy taco, or pair them with lighter proteins like fish, chicken, or pork.

Both red and green chiles play a vital role in New Mexican and Mexican cuisines, adding unique flavors and varying degrees of heat to a myriad of dishes. Their versatility and distinct characteristics make them indispensable in these culinary traditions. Whether it's the deep, earthy flavor of red chili or the fresh, zingy notes of green chili, each brings a unique taste experience that elevates the dish. So next time you're faced with the choice between red, green, or Christmas style, remember the unique flavor each chile has to offer, and then let your palate's preference lead the way.